Operation Deep Freeze
Ser Infeliz

Ahoy hoy from New Zealand.

I’m sure I’m paying my dues for something I did at some point in my life.  And it must have been really bad, cause I’m sick.  And traveling.  In the broad, grand sceme of life I suppose its not that big a’ deal.  But damn this sucks.  In addition, my left ear never totally recovered, or “popped”, from the flight here.  My head is all outta whack.  A very large part of me wanted to stay in Antarctica, and if given the option, I probably would have.  But now that I don’t have a choice and I’m on my way home, JUST GET ME HOME.  Looking forward to celebrating many Birthdays in the up-coming days.  Might ever savor a turkey leg or two.  Drink myself silly.

The drone of the engines

must have put me to sleep.  I can still hear and feel the four turbo props reverberating throughout the airframe.  How long had I been asleep?  With my eyes still closed I’m trying to figure out if I am indeed awake, or if hopefully I’m sleeping, in a dream where I don’t have to face any consequences for my actions.  I must be awake, because I can feel the foam ear plugs they make us use seemingly pierce my brain.  When I finally do open my eyes things become clearer.  Details are lost in the fog of post-sleep blurred vision but I can make out enough.  Three chairs directly in front of me, one to my immediate right.  People occupy these chairs.  They are surrounded by knobs and buttons and gizmos, and everyonce in a while they peer out the windows that half-enclose the space we’re in.  I’m in the cock-pit of a C-130.  Which makes sense because a couple hours earlier I did in fact board a C-130.  I remember that.  But where was I going?  Suddenly the fog lifts, and I see what appears to be a pilot, co-pilot, engineer, and navigator….  but something is wrong.  Wait a minute…  I must still be asleep.  The crew has some sort of breathing apparatus on their face.  And they’re wearing helmets.  They don’t normally wear helmets.  So basically in my mind one of two scenarios is going down right now.  1) I am in a dream which more and more might actually be a nightmare; or 2) There is a serious problem onboard and for some reason they neglected to wake me or inform me or at the very least offer me one of those breather thingys.  For 5 seconds, I panic.  I feel my heart pounding as its rate accelerates, and my breathing becomes heavy but I tell myself “don’t breathe! there’s nothing to breathe!”.  But I accidentally inhale.  And I’m fine.  I do it again, and again.  Heart rate slows.  Hold on, Chad was with me.  Where’s Chad?  I step down from the cock-pit into the cargo area, only to see the loadmaster, helmet on, connected to oxygen.  Great I’m still the only one without.  But there’s Chad sound asleep on the sidewall seats that face towards the center of the aircraft.  Ok, I’m NOT the only one.  Good news.  Now where am I headed?  The loadmaster taps me on the shoulder and with that giant sunglasses-like shield coming down from his helmet and the breathing apparatus, mixed with the hand gestures to compensate the lack of hearing due to the engines, it really really looks like an alien life form is trying to communicate with me.  And he’s good at it, cause I understand what he is saying.  He’s tellling me to go back up to the cock-pit because we’re almost there.  Chad is woken up and we climb up to the flight deck. 10 minutes later we can see the South Pole station as we descend.  Now its all coming back to me.  We’re on a tanker mission to the South Pole to drop off some aviation fuel.  We had been flying for quite some time.  As the skis of the C-130 touch down I can see the numerous flags representing numerous countries that surrounds the ceremonial South Pole.  Thats my destination, about 200 yards away.  We are warned as we taxi down the runway…

“Once we stop we’ll only be here for about 20 or 25 minutes”

Ok, we’ll just have to rush a little bit…..

“Try not to run or rush.  We’re at 10,000 feet and if you’re not acclamated you could pass out.”

AAhhhhh…..  thats the reason for the oxygen!  (still, why don’t I get one?)

“Make sure you bundle up, its cold out there.”

Mind you, I had been in the “cold” for about a month now.  I was used to it.  I could handle it.  But this was different.  I took one step out of aircraft and I knew this was something else.  My breath, coming up as moisture in the cold air attached itself to my eye lashes and eye brows, freezing and obstructing my vision almost immediately.  But Chad and I trudged along with as brisk a walk as you can manage with snow boots and snowpants on.  Then, there we were.  First the ceremonial South Pole that looks like a barbers pole with a big silver ball on top, then to the geographical South Pole, which was another 50 yards or so away.  The geographical pole shifts every year.  Its much less gawdy so it can be moved.  We got our pics and headed back to the plane.  On the way back I payed more attention to the scenery outside.  It was pretty amazing.  You can see these giant glaciers following the enourmous valleys in between mountains.  It was a strange trip, though, for sure.  Three hours there, get off, take a picture, then back on for three hours back.  Totally worth it.

T-minus D days and H hours

till I have to leave.  I’m bummed.  I like it here.

Its been a while since I’ve updated the blog, but the craziest thing happened….  I got really busy!!

We have a new deputy commander, so I’ve had to re-hash the whole propane tank think to him all over again.

I certified explosives today (first time, and I didn’t blow up).

I climbed Ob Hill again two days ago and slid down it.  It wasn’t as fun as yesterday, when I climbed Ob Hill yet AGAIN in order to accomany Chad to the peak, so that no one can make fun of him anymore for not reaching the top.  Then I slid down it again and it was more funner this time.

I saw another Skua.  This time it was on the ground right by where I was walking.  I have to admit its larger than I expected.  I walked one foot away from it and it didn’t move.  Just stared at me.  I was nervous I thought it was going to eat my calf for a brief second.

My replacements arrive today.  One of them have been here before so Mr. Fenske and I will assume a very short turn over.  I will be glad to be rid of my pager.  I suppose I should tell all the girls that are always blowin’ me up that I’m turning over my pager. Or not.  It would be funny if the new guy gets my pager and every night he gets these random pages from girls asking what he’s doing that night.  I’m kidding, girls aren’t always trying to get a hold of me.

Yes they are.

One night in the day room someone was playing a “mix tape” of different bands on dvd playing live at all these different shows.  I was talking to someone and I heard this one band in the background I had never heard before.  It was really good.  Its called Porcupine Tree.  I’m digging it right now.  I guess they’ve been around a while?  I’m not always up to date on things.  Not suprising when you consider the fact that I JUST found out that the guy from Hootie and the Blowfish isn’t actually named Hootie. #Tigerblood

I had a dream last night that I met a genie.  I asked him if I got a wish.  He said yes but my only options were to be a member of either Wilson Phillips or 98 Degrees.  What kind of bullshit choice is that??  Its basically a toss up.  I don’t remember answering but I think just before I woke up I was suprisingly curvy for a pop star.

Glad to hear winter is beginning just in time for my arrival.

Toodle-oo!

Muddy volcanic mud

I made the mistake of not looking at the weather before I left the room this morning.  I donned my normal Canada Goose parka, pea soup green fleece hat, and matching colored gloves.  I took the first step out of the building and prepared for what has been an inevitable gust of wind since I got on the ice.  I almost fell forward down the stairs when I anticipated the wind by leaning forward just slightly.  This morning there was no wind.

And really there have been times when conditions were calm, but it lasted for only an hour or two.  3 in the afternoon now and the flags marking the roads lay still.  The difference in temperature without the wind is quite remarkable.  All the snow and ice is starting to melt significantly, like one of those random 40 degree days in late February.  There is a problem with this, though.  There’s not really a drainage system here.  Nor are there any paved roads.  Just brown, nasty, rocky dirt.  Hence, the mud season has begun.  Really, I’m stoked.  My boots suck on the ice and for the last month I’ve been slipping and sliding around this damn place hoping that day wasn’t finally the day I lose concentration for a split second and fall flat on my ass.  But I made it.  I MADE it!  I probably shouldn’t get too excited.  Who knows what tomorrow brings.  They have a kind of “weather channel” that tells you current conditions and their best guess at a forecast, but its always wrong, of course.  It could easily return to Death Winter tomorrow.

I’m still hoping to get to the South Pole.  Time is running out. 

Because of the warming weather they will be taking out the Ob(servation) Tube.  Sounds like there is actually wildlife below the ice now.  Hopefully can get some better pictures.

I saw a Skua yesterday.  It was not nearly the evil snarling devil-gull I was made to believe it would be.  Its a bird.  Just kind of flies around.

Suddenly, Sunday sucks.

Sleeping sounds soft and serene since staggering sideways Saturday.  I simply slammed seven Sam Adams while simultaniously sucking down a cig.

Psych!

You’re such a sucker!

Veterans Day

Happy Veterans Day out there to all Veterans, past and present.

I was involved in a ceremony on Scott Base (run by the Kiwi’s) this afternoon.  I was part of the Color Guard that presented the flag.  It was a little nerve racking cause I hadn’t done any drill ceremonies for quite a while.  Plus, since the New Zealanders were hosting it, we had to march like they do.  And they march a bit differently.  The whole thing was kind of one of those things that I volunteered to do, then as it got closer I was like “ugh why did I volunteer for this?”, and now that its over I’m super glad I was a part of it.  I held the American flag and I didn’t drop it or let it touch the ground or anything!  Success!

Tomorrow four good friends of mine will depart on a journey that I should have been a part of.  They are traveling down to New Orleans for Brian Prestegaards bachelor party.  It was a difficult choice to make for me, honestly (especially [not exspecially] because I had already bought the damn ticket).  I wanted to get down here when I had the chance, and the only other opportunity I could have had would’ve been later in the year when the actual wedding will happen.  I chose to miss the bachelor party instead.  So, best of luck to them.  Wish I could be with you guys.  Some advice:  Keep an eye on Corry, he tends to wander.  Probably best I didn’t join them, actually.  Once in jail is more than enough for me.

 Its a couple minutes in, but pretty cool!

Crud

is the name of a 2 piece band I saw tuesday night here at McMurdo.  Crud is also what everyone calls it when you get sick here.  Not the sniffles.  Not a fever.  Not a stomach ache.  You have The Crud.  The band was actually quite good.  One drummer, who was mediocre at best, and one guitar player.  There were no words in the songs.  It was more like a string of 2 minute dittys.  Lots of feedback screaming out of the guitarist 1X10 fender tube amp.  Think White Stripes meets Nirvana.  Honestly the guitar player was decent.  For not having lyrics, the songs were pretty well put together (except for the drummer, who missed cues and didn’t really “explore the space”, to steal a line from Christopher Walken).  But hey it was live music, right?  Once I stopped being a critic I enjoyed the hell out of it.

My friend Mandi asked me how it was going the other day.  I almost just automatically said “good”.  And, I think I did end up saying “good”.  But I followed that up by saying that the novelty is starting to wear off.  Its starting to “…feel like less of an adventure and more like work.”  Which, is neither a bad thing nor unexpected.  But it sucks.  I would still stay here longer if they would let me, but I’m starting to understand why (some of) the New York people start to resent this place.  I suppose everything is predecated on whether you do it by choice or if its something required of you.

I keep meeting interesting people.  Yesterday I found out that two civilian girls I work with have Masters Degrees in fields completely unrelated to what they’re doing here.  And actually one of the girls spent/spends a lot of time in Eveleth.  Crazy small world.  I’ve met more than a handful of people from Minnesota.  One lady is from Grand Marais, another one actually works at the same hospital as my Mom in Cambridge.  I’m beggining to see that this is kind of like an adult playground for a lot of these people.  When I asked one of the girls why people with these advanced degrees come down here and do dishes and clean toilets or do administrative work, she said its because they don’t want to grow up.  I had to chuckle at that.  The scientist who are actually here to do work don’t stick around long. They usually get on a flight to out-lying camps soon after they arrive from Christchurch.  So the people left are Military, and civilians, half of which are down here just for the experience.  Kinda like me.  Who says I can’t relate to hippies?

Traversing the Antarctic

Traversing the Antarctic

Back in the 90’s

they started shipping really big cylinders of propane to out of the way observation posts all over Antarctica.  Now they want to bring them back.  Unfortunately last time they tried to trasport these things by aircraft, one started to leak.  Chad and I have been tasked to figure out a way to safely get these cylinders back to McMurdo without any risk of leakage.  Thats what my commander said to me.  “Without any risk.” Hazardous materials always have a risk.  Its risky.  They are hazardous.  There are definitely ways to mitigate the risk, but nothing is without risk.  I think whats going to happen is they are going to fly these cylinders to the South Pole, and traverse them the rest of the way.  At least thats my recommendation.

Traversing is basically traveling in this big vehicle that has 4 separate tracks instead of tires.  (i should take some pictures of the vehicles around here theyr’e pretty cool)  They pull cargo on a train of sleds across the ground and ice and from what I understand, speed is not the strong suit of these vehicles.  I can’t really see any safer way to do it.  The less the tanks are in the aircraft warming, the less time the LPG can expand inside the cylinders and trigger the pressure release valve that keeps the cylinder itself from rupturing.  Its either that or fly the 100 or so tanks around the continent 2 at a time using vent kits on the aircraft, which will never happen thats too expensive and time consuming.

Last night there was a movie on tv about a federal marshall stationed at the south pole.  There were murders happening all over the place and no one can get away or leave couse its too cold and I’m like great good movie to show here.  But, Kate Beckinsdale was in it.  And I thought she would want me to watch the movie she was in, so I did.

Recent reports:

-There were penguins down at the runway yesterday

-Todays high is supposed to be 23 (F)

-I had my underwear on backwards all day Sunday

-The National Science Foundation helicopters here are offering open seats to deserving individuals.  I”m suddenly on my bestest behavior. 

-Gophers hockey #1??

-Burger King has shown a 20% decrease in profits since I left.  Coincidence?  I think not.